Best/easiest route from the Pacific to Michigan

[denisekessler1@gmail.com]

I am wondering what would be the best recommendation of a route across the US, going through Michigan,  for my 14yr old son and myself this summer.  I can't tell if one of the 3 upper routes from the west coast is better or worse in any way.  I've done the mileage but I am sure that may not compare with how the route winds through the divide.  Any input is appreciated!!

[indyfabz]

Not sure what you mean by the upper three routes, but assuming you mean the TransAm, Lewis & Clark and the Northern Tier, I think the L&C, using the option through Lincoln to Great Falls, and the Northern Tier, will have less climbing than the TransAm. The thing with the Northern Tier, though, is that if you leave from Astoria you climb the North Cascades Highway around the third or fourth day. Here is the profile from the last camping spot on the west slope to the summit of the second pass:

https://ridewithgps.com/routes/18434028

Then you basically have a mountain pass each of the next three days. After that, it's relatively tame until Glacier National Park, although the stretch between Libby, MT and Rexford/Eureka, MT is pretty tough (I am planning to ride it again this summer) due to lots of ups and downs along the lake:

https://ridewithgps.com/routes/17946093

If you make the foray in Alberta after St. Mary, MT, which I highly recommend, you have a hard, hilly day to get to Waterton Village (great place for a rest day). After that, you have no more mountains, but Magrath, AB back to Cut Bank, MT was tough because of the distance, lack of services and wind.

[John Nettles]

While I have not ridden the L&C between the ocean and Lewiston, ID, I have ridden the TA and the NT.  I "think" the L&C has less climbs until you get to Montana.  As Indyfabz mentioned, the NT has some serious climbs pretty early into the ride.  The TA has some also but they do not for a week or so.

If I were trying to have the "lowest" but best route, I would probably try the L&C to Missoula, then either 1) go to Glacier NP via Northern Parks then connect to the NT until you reconnect to the L&C    OR   2) connect to the TA until Waldren, CO,  then go "off route" toward Muscatine, IA, where you can reconnect with the NT.

Colorado, Nebraska, Kansas, and Iowa all have a wonderful bike map produced by the state.  The roads are typically low traffic counts.  The big drawback is that you have to do more work every day looking for camping places but honestly, being a woman with your son you should have little difficulty finding places.  Small town folk typically are very helpful for woman riders.  Not trying to sound sexist, just honest.

While the 2nd option would have higher elevation, you should be strong enough by then to tackle it.   Plus you get some better and more varied scenery.  Be sure to go to Jackson, WY, if you take this route.  However, option 1 definitely has less elevation.

I started touring when I was 14 years old.  I am now in my early 50s and have around 65k miles of touring.  Be warned, he may develop a lifelong addiction.

Best, John

[denisekessler1@gmail.com]

Thank you so much.   Is there a general number of weeks that anyone knows of that it will take us to get to the Atlantic?

[John Nettles]

It all depends on the route and how many miles you do a day.  For instance, you said "Michigan".  Is that northern, southern, entering northern going to southern, then going through Ontario vs the US, etc.?

Anyway, a good rule of thumb is an average is 55-60 miles per RIDING day.  Obviously, some only do 25 miles per day and other super-strong riders do 125 miles on average (and miss a lot).  Figure roughly 2,800 miles or about 51 days on the second option I showed.  The ACA routes page will break down the various routes and segments to be more exact.

If you are trying to do it during the summer break, I would definitely do east to west as the western mountains may still have cooler weather and/or a few mountain passes MAY still be closed with snow.  Plus you will be stronger for the longer climbs once you get there and then you can do any route you want.  If home-schooled, west to east is slightly better due to a slight tailwind favoring.  Regardless, I did my first TransAm route when I was 14.  I missed the first week of school and can tell you the experience was a LOT better than the first week of school.

Best, John

[jamawani]

Denise -

You don't provide a lot of info, so I am forced to guess.
I sense that you haven't done major touring before - will this be a first tour?
Also, not sure of your touring style - camping v. motels - and time frame.

If you are fairly new and take the most direct route - 8 weeks minimum. 10 weeks with days off.
Camping saves money, but there are fewer places to camp and not as nice as you get east.
Motels are sparse in some sections of the west - and pricey during peak season.

You don't necessarily have to train like a marathon runner - but some training is essential.
Plus, you should plan on your first few days to be light - work out the kinks, mechanical adjustments.

Do you want ocean waves to ocean waves - or will Puget Sound and/or Chesapeake Bay suffice?
If you want to include Michigan, you will probably need to cross Lake Michigan on one of the ferries.
Do you need to stick with ACA maps or are you comfortable doing part of your own route.
(It sounds like you will have to do, at least, some of your own route no matter what.)

The Lewis & Clark is the easiest way to head east from Astoria - and Astoria is easy to get to.
Frankly, I think there are better choices for scenery and lower traffic. US 30 and Wash 14 are not great.

US 12 in Idaho has some dicey, narrow sections, but along the Lochsa River and over Lolo Pass is great.
The southern leg of the L&C is more interesting than the northern leg, but puts you on or next to I-90 a lot.
The Northern Tier across the Great Plains in mind-numbingly boring at times. Much better options if you wish.

In Wisconsin, you can ride rail trails all the way from LaCrosse to Milwaukee and catch the ferry.
Lacrosse River Trail, Elroy-Sparta Trail (One of the oldest in the nation), and the 400 Trail.
Then a combination of trails from Madison to Milwaukee.

Best - J

[denisekessler1@gmail.com]

Thank you J.
30 years ago I lead a tour around Nova Scotia and since that time I ride for exercise around Vermont averaging 14 mile rides.  My son will have done very little although we intend to do some training through the Adirondacks during spring break and on Saturdays as the tour approaches.
My husband will be driving a small camper and meeting us wherever we end our day......trying to make this as "easy" as we can so my son is not discouraged.
I am concerned about the more southern routes as I don't want it to be so hot that my son gives up.  Thus we have been looking at the more northern routes........and we have a lot of family in Michigan although the priority is getting across country before school starts again.  We were thinking coming in the north and cutting over to Port Huron.
I will try to piece together the routes you've mentioned
I am trying to get big picture input here and so I am all ears.
I did just learn that my friend and retiring mentor wants to join us for the tour as well.  He rides regularly.
Ocean waves to ocean waves is something wished for but I will talk to my son about the Sound to the Bay.  That is a good point to consider.
We are comfortable doing part of our own route especially if the routes are better.  Scenery beats boring for sure with a 14 yr old.
We did already purchase our tickets to fly to Portland OR on June 14 to start west to east for the sake of the tail winds.  I hope that is not a mistake?
We did assume we'd need to go through Ontario to make it home in time although going through the states would be more ideal for him.  It's just that taking more southern routes and burning out in the heat sounds killer.
Thank you so much for your time and input. It is rich as I try to invest in my son with a tour that he will enjoy the memories of forever.

[jamawani]

Denise -

I've got more than 100,000 miles experience - - bad habit - - and am working on some specific ideas/maps, but want to share a few quick thoughts with you. The flight to Portland is fine. PDX is an easier airport than SEA/TAC. Being able to do the initial staging with a camper-van will make starting the trip easier. I started my first X-USA trip from Astoria - the shipwreck on the coast is a favorite photo op. But with a van you can opt for a few place in Washington, too - like Ilwaco or Tokeland or Westport.

I think 60 days is a reasonable estimate for a direct X-USA trip. 2 days to stage, 56 days/8 weeks to ride, and 2 days to return.

About visiting folks. I have had many people over the years say, "If you're going to be near Atlanta, drop by and stay with us." Usually that is not a good idea. Hitting a city on a bike is tough - even if they come and pick you up, it breaks the touring rhythm. So, if someone asks for you to ride thru Lansing and it really isn't on your route, tell them to meet you in Ionia. Anyhoo, 30 miles is 3 hours on the bike, but only 1/2 hour driving.

The gist - plan a route that works for you and have other folks meet y'all along the way. Many state parks have cabins. Small towns have inexpensive mom & pop motels. They can pack up the car with apple pies and girl scout cookies.

[Pat Lamb]

I think 60 days is a reasonable estimate for a direct X-USA trip. 2 days to stage, 56 days/8 weeks to ride, and 2 days to return.

Not knowing the physical shape of Denise or her 14 year old son, I'd suggest adding another couple weeks to this estimate.  Of course, if he's already a starting linebacker for his high school football team (some kids physically mature much younger than others), and if you're both in shape, 60 days might work.

[jamawani]

Denise -

Maybe way more than you want - but here goes.

Here are traffic count maps for:
Oregon -
http://www.oregon.gov/ODOT/TD/TDATA/tsm/docs/Flow_Map_2015.pdf
Washington -
http://www.wsdot.wa.gov/mapsdata/tools/trafficplanningtrends.htm

Possible initial segments:
US 30 - South side of Columbia - 77 mi; +3680 elevation
https://ridewithgps.com/routes/18958632
WA 4 - North side of Columbia - 80 mi; +3750 elevation
https://ridewithgps.com/routes/18960513
WA 8 - Willapa Hills - 78 mi; +2820 elevation
https://ridewithgps.com/routes/10737575
US 12 - Chehalis Valley backroads - 76 mi; +1000 elevation
https://ridewithgps.com/routes/10724974

Look at the elevation profiles - way different. The Columbia River routes have lots of ups and downs. The Willapa route has a single gradual climb. The Chehalis route is level.

Western Washington / Oregon

Oregon -
US 30 traffic volume is often 10,000 vehicles per day and 20,000 as you get close to Portland. For me that is insane. Yes, there is a wide shoulder and it is “technically” safe, but it sure isn’t pleasant. Plus a couple of moderate climbs.
The Historic Columbia Highway east of Portland is lovely and is used by many Portland cyclists, but it is narrow, with many steep ups and downs, and has a good deal of tourist car traffic.

Washington -
WA 4 west of Cathlamet is lovely with low traffic and near-perfect vistas of farms and rivers. The camping park at Skamokawa has the most stunning view of the Lower Columbia. There are some good climbs. Traffic picks up east of Cathlamet, but the views remain great.
WA 14 has heavy traffic in the Vancouver metro area and a good deal all the way through the Columbia Gorge. And it isn’t flat. East of Maryhill it gets pretty remote, arid, and breezy. I rode this on my first X-USA trip back in 1987. Lots more traffic now.
WA 8 has low traffic and a parallel bike trail from Pe Ell to Chehalis. There is a gradual climb to the summit of the Willapa Hills. Rainbow Falls Park has great camping.
US 12 west of I-5 is a busy 4-lane highway, but there are quiet, parallel back roads all the way. The is the easiest route from the coast with almost no elevation gain. Moderate scenery.
US 12 east of I-5 is a great route through the Cascades. The main highway has only moderate traffic and good shoulders, but there are excellent back road sections with almost no traffic. There are a couple of views of Mount St. Helens and Mount Adams and lots of views of snow-capped Mount Rainier.

Even though White Pass on US 12 is at 4500 ft., there is more overall climbing on the L&C route through the Columbia Gorge.

Eastern Washington / Oregon

WA 14 is O.K. Light traffic and you should have tailwinds, but pretty barren with the views behind you. You cross back into Oregon and hit US 730 with moderate traffic and some nice river views. US 12 from the river to Walla Walla is pretty busy, but with safe shoulders.

US 12 on the east side is one of the finest rides in Washington state. Big vistas, canyons, and the rushing Tieton River. Back roads thru the Naches Valley orchards - cherry season in June. Two options to the Tri-Cities - the Old Inland Empire Highway thru the Yakima Valley or WA 24 / WA 240 which is more direct, but pretty empty. Pasco-Kahlotus Road is an empty, paved, road through dry country. What the L&C route misses is the most spectacular scenery in southeast Washington - Palouse Falls - which should be huge in June. A fantabulous overnight.

<<<>>>

If you have a vehicle at Portland airport, I might suggest starting in Westport, Washington or at the Tokeland Hotel.
http://www.tokelandhotel.com/home.html

A suggested route across Washington:
https://ridewithgps.com/routes/18965206


Photo - Willapa Bay

[jamawani]

Not knowing the physical shape of Denise or her 14 year old son, I'd suggest adding another couple weeks to this estimate.  Of course, if he's already a starting linebacker for his high school football team (some kids physically mature much younger than others), and if you're both in shape, 60 days might work.

"Direct" - meaning 3200 miles. 400 miles per week. 66 mi per day with 1 day off.
Having a support vehicle means you will be carrying minimal extra weight.
Should be no problem. But you should be prepared beforehand.

[denisekessler1@gmail.com]

I am soooo grateful for your time.  I will pour through this on maps and look at the elevations. 
My son is a sprouting 14 yr old who has just started shooting up in height and is slender...........and just had a complete fracture of his ulna and radius on his right arm 2 weeks ago.....from which he'll probably recover faster than I can imagine.  I did read somewhere that expecting more than 60 miles a day with his growing tendons and muscles may be a dangerous expatiation so I'll be taking that into account.  I can't wait to get to the maps and see what you have written up for us.  Big big thanks.
We'll be raising sponsors at 1 penny a mile for "food" for third world countries distributed through Christian Veterinary Missions (I am a vet so see the need for education about chickens for eggs and such food) so hopefully whatever we accumulate in sponsors will help encourage us up those hills and along the vast stretches.  Kobe has a desire to do something big to help hungry people so we've decided to call our venture "Something Big....on bikes".  Just thought I'd share our little story.

[denisekessler1@gmail.com]

Jamawani I hope you're still there.
I have had time now to pour over each of the routes you've outlined.  What an INCREDIBLE wealth of opportunity you have outlined for us.  I am awed at the time you've given.
I have a couple of questions.
1. I think we'll take the route from Westport that you outlined; it sounds the most beautiful of the routes and has the least elevations for starting the trip.  We would love to see the Palouse Falls.  I am wondering what you think of following the southerly dip ridewithgps route from Yakima to Palouse Falls (151mi) or cut more directly across from Yakima to Palouse falls on rt 24 and 260 (131mi).  I don't know if there is a particular reason that ridewithgps chose the more southerly direction with 20 more miles?
2. I'm then looking for wisdom from Missoula to Three Forks either northerly through Lincoln and Helena adventurecycling route, verses the southerly adventurecycling route through Hamilton/Wisdom/Dillon/Twin Bridges to Three Forks?

From Bozeman we hope to take a day trip in a vehicle to Yellowstone and from there it looks straightforward to the Atlantic relative to the western part of the trip. 

[indyfabz]

Not to interject, but another option from Missoula to Three Forks is through Drummond, Philipsburg, Anaconda, Butte and Whitehall. It requires a few, relatively short stretches on I-90. (One fewer if you can handle a relatively short stretch of tame gravel/dirt.) Highlights include Georgetown Lake, the Pintler Scenic Byway and Pipestone Pass just east of Butte, which is not that difficult west to east. It also goes through a nice canyon area via MT 2 passed Lewis & Clark Caverns State Park, which has a campground. There are also several other camping options along the way, including in Philipsburg, which is a neat little town with old time ice cream shop. Butte has a KOA, but it's near I-90. An alternative is the motor lodge portion of the Hotel Finlen in the historic part of Butte. Reserve a room on the first floor and you can roll your bike into the room. Let me know if you want more details.

[jamawani]

Denise -

Thank you for your kinds words.
I have ridden the Missoula-Lincoln-Helena route a number of times.
Did it on my 1st x-c ride in 1987 - and did it again last sumer.
Journal on Crazyguyonabike - https://www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/?o=tS&doc_id=17976&v=UU
Flesher Pass is a pretty easy crossing of the continental divide with low traffic.

Traffic mellows out a few iles east of Missoula and there is a shoulder.
The Blackfoot River is a "Blue Ribbon" trout stream - gorgeous mile after mile.
Nice cafe at the top of the climb at Potomac - and a good spot for a break.
You must include Ovando - general store, cafe, camping - magical.
There is a narrow stretch thru Blackfoot Canyon before Lincoln - camping/services.

There are two back ways into Helena from Silver City - Birdseye Road and Green Meadow Rd.
Birdseye is harder, but very scenic. Green Meadow is pretty level with more traffic.

Helena is a marvelous town -
There's camping out at the fairgrounds - a ways out - but if you have vehicle support, no big deal.
Last Chance Gulch downtown has amazing Western history.
The Algerian Temple, the Cathedral, great bike shops, restaurants, museums.

BTW - Here's a cycling map of Montana with summer traffic counts:
https://mdt.mt.gov/travinfo/docs/bike_map.pdf

Best - Jama

PS - June is the perfect time to cross eastern Washington and to see Palouse Falls roaring.
PPS - US 12 is a gentle, low-traffic ride across eastern Montana.