Best brakes and wheels for S&S Coupled touring bike?

[RussSeaton]

Maybe I should change by category of brakes.  Disc, Caliper, and Cantilever.  But on the concept of them sticking out too far and not fitting in a case, there are VERY different widths of cantilever brakes.

These are the traditional, wide, stick out to the side cantilever brakes.

https://www.competitivecyclist.com/avid-shorty-ultimate-brake?skid=AVI0091-BK-FRO&CMP_SKU=AVI0091&MER=0406&CSPID=0914&mr:trackingCode=69399CAA-E481-E511-80FA-0050569475F3&mr:referralID=NA&mr:device=c&mr:adType=plaonline&mr:ad=185070668574&mr:keyword=&mr:match=&mr:tid=pla-379278108929&mr:ploc=9017849&mr:iloc=&mr:store=&mr:filter=379278108929&CMP_ID=PLA_GOc014&CSPID=0914&utm_source=Google&utm_medium=PLA&k_clickid=204b292b-32e3-44e7-8b19-411e35d48305&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIp8ik6uTG1wIV3rfACh0jtA_qEAQYAiABEgJiyfD_BwE

http://www.jensonusa.com/Tektro-CR720-Cantilever-Brake/?utm_source=FRGL&utm_medium=organic&pt_source=googleads&pt_medium=cpc&pt_campaign=shopping_us&pt_keyword=&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIgK3RzefG1wIVB7bACh0SFw8ZEAQYBSABEgJR5fD_BwE

And these are much narrower cantilever brakes.

https://www.niagaracycle.com/categories/shimano-cx50-front-rear-cantilever-brake?utm_source=TPA%20On%20Google%20Shopping&utm_campaign=Top%20Placement%20Ads%C2%AE%20(SPLA)&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=People%20Searching%20For%20Bike%20Parts&utm_content=Google%20Shopping&product_id=9685&device=c&loc_physical_ms=9017849&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIzeDvzeTG1wIVHLbACh3O2gxAEAQYAiABEgI3OfD_BwE

http://www.treefortbikes.com/product/333222363680/1233/Avid-Shorty-Ultimate-Cantilever.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&adpos=1o5&scid=scplp3332223636809143&sc_intid=3332223636809143&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIxJHO1OXG1wIVjLrACh3ZnQVzEAQYBSABEgIxcPD_BwE

It seems to me the much narrower cantilever brakes would eliminate this problem of fitting into the bike cases.

[driftlessregion]

"I know the feeling - my bike's around a 56cm in size, and things are pretty difficult to pack in the case"
Try packing a 64 cm with fenders and racks!

[tbessie]

"I know the feeling - my bike's around a 56cm in size, and things are pretty difficult to pack in the case"
Try packing a 64 cm with fenders and racks!

That sounds like it would be well-nigh impossible!

[tbessie]

... It seems to me the much narrower cantilever brakes would eliminate this problem of fitting into the bike cases.

Thanks much, Russ!  Good suggestions!

[staehpj1]

Personally I can't see the point of having S&S couplers. Unless you are travelling regularly they don't seem good value. And then you have to store the case or forward it to your end point.

Yeah, it depends on the usage.

For me couplers are of little to no benefit since I typically fly to one city and fly home from another if I am not riding toward home.  For point to point trips like the TA, NT, ST, PC, SC, and so on having a case to deal with creates more problems than it solves.

They are great for someone who flies to other cities and either does a loop and returns from the same city or just does day riding there.

Another thing that makes them less suitable for me is that over my touring career I have done different types of tours on different bikes.  So I'd have had a harder time getting my money's worth of savings since I'd have needed them on three different bikes (loaded touring bike, old 1990 race bike with U/L load, and old 1990 MTB).  My next tours are likely to be on two additional bikes (new road bike or new MTB if off road).

My usual advice is to think about how and where you travel and what your future bike plans are before deciding on couplers.  They may be a real savings in the long run or they may not.

[Pat Lamb]

Personally I can't see the point of having S&S couplers. Unless you are travelling regularly they don't seem good value. And then you have to store the case or forward it to your end point.

Yeah, it depends on the usage.

For Tim's stated usage, it makes a lot of sense.  I bought mine to take on business trips right before the airlines decided to charge for every piece of luggage (and no, neither Frontier nor Southwest flies out of my hometown).  Even so, and even with just a few trips a year that are long enough to make taking the bike worth the trouble, I'm about half way between the S&S couplers and case paying for themselves, and the whole bicycle paying for itself, just on the difference between "second piece of luggage" and "checked bicycle" fees.

[staehpj1]

Personally I can't see the point of having S&S couplers. Unless you are travelling regularly they don't seem good value. And then you have to store the case or forward it to your end point.

Yeah, it depends on the usage.

For Tim's stated usage, it makes a lot of sense.  I bought mine to take on business trips right before the airlines decided to charge for every piece of luggage (and no, neither Frontier nor Southwest flies out of my hometown).  Even so, and even with just a few trips a year that are long enough to make taking the bike worth the trouble, I'm about half way between the S&S couplers and case paying for themselves, and the whole bicycle paying for itself, just on the difference between "second piece of luggage" and "checked bicycle" fees.

I agree.  I only posted my advice for others who may be reading because it seems that sometimes folks just assume couplers will work out without really thinking through their usage case.

[RussSeaton]

... It seems to me the much narrower cantilever brakes would eliminate this problem of fitting into the bike cases.

Thanks much, Russ!  Good suggestions!

Also remember those now obsolete and forgotten V brakes.  They used to be the only brakes on mountain bikes.  Now they have disappeared.  But the shorter V brakes work just fine with road brake levers.  And the long V brakes (the normal ones on mountain bikes) work fine on road brake levers with an adaptor.  V brakes stick straight up, they do not stick out to the side at all.  So they should be easier to get into a case than bulky calipers or cantilever brakes that stick out to the side.  Of course with cantilever brakes, they do swing in if you squeeze them so they won't stick out much at all.  When in operation they may stick straight out to the side 3 inches.  But with the wheel off, they will swing up and in and not stick out at all past the fork or frame.

[tbessie]

Consolidate bikes?  What are you thinking!?!?! 

Well, I live in a small San Francisco apartment... hard to contain all my bikes in that tiny space.

If I lived in a big house with a garage, tho' - WATCH OUT! :-D

- Tim

[mpc0810]

Titanium S&S coupler 55cm complete touring bike posted in classifieds

[mpc0810]

I have a coupled bike.  If I were building a new one I would go with centerlock 160 MM rotors and TRP HY/Rd brakes.  Cable driven hydraulic brakes.  It's just one nut to remove the rotors and one cable to splice for the rear brakes.  More braking power than you will likely ever need and will work well regardless of weather conditions.  While we are talking about cable splicing take a look at SAM red WiFli  e-tap.  Compact crank up front and 11-32 cassette in the rear.  No cables to splice and you can put blips wherever you want for shift points on your bars.

[RussSeaton]

While we are talking about cable splicing take a look at SRAM red WiFli  e-tap.  Compact crank up front and 11-32 cassette in the rear.  No cables to splice and you can put blips wherever you want for shift points on your bars.

Maybe I am missing something or not following closely.  The SRAM wireless is for shifting.  No cables to splice for derailleurs.  Its wireless derailleur operation.  But that does not do anything for splicing BRAKE cables.  S&S coupled bikes would also need you to splice the rear brake cable.  Whether its a cable like for road rim brakes or cantilever brakes or a cable for your cable actuated hydraulic disc brakes you talk about.  I don't know if you can splice hydraulic fluid rear brake "cables".  SRAM, Shimano, Campagnolo wireless shifting units are only wireless for the front and rear derailleurs.  None of them change brake cables.

[tbessie]

I have a coupled bike.  If I were building a new one I would go with centerlock 160 MM rotors and TRP HY/Rd brakes.  Cable driven hydraulic brakes.  It's just one nut to remove the rotors and one cable to splice for the rear brakes.  More braking power than you will likely ever need and will work well regardless of weather conditions.  While we are talking about cable splicing take a look at SAM red WiFli  e-tap.  Compact crank up front and 11-32 cassette in the rear.  No cables to splice and you can put blips wherever you want for shift points on your bars.

Thanks for the suggestions!

I'm completely anti-electric for my bikes - that misses the point of a bike (for me, not for others), where everything is mechanical; so no wireless shifting on my bikes. :-)

- Tim