Bottle Cage Allen screw Size

[Nyimbo]

Just came home with the new bike y'day eve. 
First thing before riding is to install the saddle, pedals and bottle mounts but the allen screws do not fit into the frame of the new 520.  All my previous bicycles had the same size bolt so I thought I'd head over to the local hardware store for some metric allen screws.  Does anyone know what size I might need?

[John Nettles]

I think they are typically 5mm.  Personally, I would take the usual one that you know does NOT work and since you know if it is too small or too large, get the next size up. Or better yet, ride the bike over there.

[Nyimbo]

Thanks John,  Good idea!

[Nyimbo]

ok, I'm an idiot.  The holes in the frame were already filled with painted allen screws that matched the frame color, and I was sitting there trying to screw the allen bolts into the top of the painted allen hole spot.  In my defense I was trying to do it in a dimly lit garage when I got home last. 

[John Nettles]

Hey, I like how you can laugh at yourself.  Most would be too chicken to admit that.  I say if you can't laugh at yourself, you need to lighten up.

Seriously though, I would replace all allen bolts with stainless steel allen bolts and be sure to put a thin layer of decent waterproof grease on them like Phil Wood Waterproof Grease.  One tube lasts a lifetime.  I would guess one of your cycling friends have some if you do not already. It really sucks when an aluminum or steel bolt freezes onto the frame and you strip the head and then you have to try to get it out with damaging the boss threads.

[hikerjer]

" be sure to put a thin layer of decent waterproof grease on them -  The old plumber's trick. Works like a charm.

[Pat Lamb]

OK, you got my curiosity up.  You got a new 520, a production bike, and the bottle cage screws matched the paint job?  What color is the bike?

[Nyimbo]

Dark Blue.  I thought the bike was black looking at the bike pics on my phone but when I saw it in person its a navy-blue or dark blue color.  I don't remember how to upload a pic here so I am putting a link from the Trek web site. I really like the color too.

https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/bikes/adventure-touring-bikes/520/520-grando/p/33474/?colorCode=bluedark

[Nyimbo]

I dropped by the small town local bike shop here and asked for Phil Wood waterproof grease, the guy gave me a bottle of "Boeshield T-9 Bicycle" and said that would work.  So I just took it home but reading the bottles details it does say waterproof but doesn't mention grease in the description at all.  Anyone know if this fits the purpose you were recommending to grease up the Allen bolts or should I use this product for a better purpose?

[John Nelson]

T-9 is the wrong product for your intended use. Shops sometimes try to sell you what they have when they don’t have what you need. I might just avoid this shop in the future, or at least that salesperson.

Any general-purpose grease should work. I use Park grease, but you could even use automotive grease.

[DaveB]

T-9 is the wrong product for your intended use. Shops sometimes try to sell you what they have when they don’t have what you need. I might just avoid this shop in the future, or at least that salesperson.

Any general-purpose grease should work. I use Park grease, but you could even use automotive grease.

+1 Boeshield is a pretty good chain lube but it isn't a grease.  Phil Grease is excellent and I use it to overhaul all of my hub, headset and other bearings but it's isn't needed for what the OP requires.  Get the smallest, cheapest tube of general purpose grease Walmart or you local auto parts store sells.

If yo plan to do major maintenance and overhauls of your bike in the future, invest in a high quality grease line Phil or Park but they aren't needed for your immediate use. 

BTW, use whatever you buy to also grease the seatpost and pedal threads.  That will save you major problems in the future.

[Pat Lamb]

I started re-packing bike wheel bearings with a can of automotive grease that was probably 20-25 years old at the time.  It worked fine. 

I bought a tub of Pedro's and then a tube of Phil Wood after some years looking for a neater way to repack bike wheels, since I usually do that in the house on a cold winter afternoon.  They all work about the same.  The tub is easiest to use for bolts, just clean the bolt off and stick it down in the grease.

[misterflask]

10-32 machine screws can often sub for M5x.8 in a pinch, but they are just a hair smaller and thus run the danger of stripping out.

We've strayed into that dangerous lubricant territory.  I buy cartridges of Chevron SRI grease for all bike-greasing.  It is a high quality poly-urea based grease, which is fairly water tolerant.  FWIW, it looks just like Phil Wood grease. 

[DaveB]

We've strayed into that dangerous lubricant territory.  I buy cartridges of Chevron SRI grease for all bike-greasing.  It is a high quality poly-urea based grease, which is fairly water tolerant.  FWIW, it looks just like Phil Wood grease.

Yeah, grease preference threads can get very contentious and, really, for no reason.   Bicycle bearing service is very undemanding compared to many automotive and industrial uses so almost any decent grease is perfectly satisfactory. 

I've been using Phil Grease since the '80's and it's been very good but many other "bike specific" and "general purpose" greases would be just as good.  Phil in the 3-oz tubes is absurdly expensive per ounce but I buy it in 640 gm (22.5-oz) tubs which makes the cost reasonable and it lasts for years.  I refill a 4 oz Dualco grease gun from the tub and dispense it from there.  That keeps the bulk grease clean and meters it accurately with little waste.

[David W Pratt]

Agree on the contentious/troll nature of lubricant threads.  Bicycle lubricants seem to have a dual nature, they never come out or off of rugs, upholstery, clothing, skin; at the same time the slightest misty rain will wash them off their intended locations.