I did this route last week, mid-September. Gorgeous scenery and the beginning of fall colors. The weather was perfect, too -- generally warm and dry during the day, cool at night for camping. Many of the details have been covered elsewhere in the forum but some things I think worth mentioning:
1. The ACA maps are awesome!
2. Yes, some of the road are windy and narrow, but traffic was sparse and I wouldn't have changed a thing.
3. The hills. I mean HILLS! A little background: I love to climb. I'm no racer, but I train with some. They might get me on a sprint, but not on a hill. I've done the Rockies, the ACA Green Mountains Loop, Mt. Mitchell, Mont Ventoux -- and loved every minute of it. That said, I was surprised by the hills on this route. There are few single climbs on the route that stick out in my mind as being especially onerous, on an individual basis. But it was more the entire package -- except for the rail-trails, it seemed that every turn revealed yet another climb. My only regret is that my average speed was a little slower than expected, and I felt like I was rushing to get to camp or didn't have time to check out some local things. I completed the route as published in 7 1/2 days of riding. Should have planned maybe 9 or 10 days at a more leisurely pace.
4. The dirt. I rode all the gravel/dirt roads on the main route. Most were in pretty good shape, ie., not sandy or with huge, loose gravel. BUT . . . I run 700-35Cs on my Surly LHT with beefy mountain bike hubs and 36 spokes (still broke one, though, five miles from the end in Blacksburg!). I wouldn't have wanted to try some of those areas, like CR600 on map 3, or most of map 7, with anything less. Actually, I managed to leave my panniers in Bartow and ride map 7 unloaded, which really helped. Some of the dirt stretches, though, were the most scenic -- like Richardson Gorge Rd. on map 4. And, of course, the two rail-trails. The West Fork Trail was overgrown and very remote feeling; the Greenbrier was well-maintained .
So . . . allow plenty of time to enjoy it, go with fatties, and bring plenty of supplies. PopTarts and chips were easy to find; fresh fruits and vegetables less so. (HINT: There was a farmer's maket in Marlinton this past Saturday morning. Might be a regular affair, in season, and it was a great find!).